Meet Tracey, one of our long-time customers and friend. Tracey started surfing with us as a beginner, and today her surfing has come a long way. She is the facilitator of the Waves of Wellness foundation program with whom we have teamed up to create a positive impact through surfing. Read in this interview on how surfing has impacted Tracey’s life and why she thinks you should give surfing a go too!
Where are you from?
I came to Lennox about 18 years ago from Alice Springs but before that we lived in the Torres Straits. Not much surf in either places!
What do you do when you’re not in the water?
I love bushwalking and also ocean swimming but that’s back in the water! I’m a social worker facilitating surf therapy groups with a charity foundation called Waves of Wellness, which has just expanded to the Ballina region. It’s fantastic work combining the adventure of learning to surf with exploring mental health resilience strategies. I love the work and it has me back in the water!
How long have you been surfing?
I tried to learn 5 years ago but a basketball injury stopped me. Last September I started up again with a series of lessons from Surf Getaways which were great fun and social. They gave me the confidence to start going out on my own.
Why did you take it up?
The ocean was scary for me, I knew mountains and I knew rivers through kayaking. I learnt to swim as an adult and I found the surf intimidating, especially after the surf club rescued me from a flash rip taking me for a ride. I figured that the ocean was throwing down the gauntlet and I took up the challenge! It’s been a slow process but I love the moods of the sea, the exhilaration of harnessing her energy and the freedom I feel catching a wave.
Apart from the joy of surfing the waves, what else has surfing given you?
Surfing gives me the most exhilarating immersion in nature. Here, I can forget my daily challenges, be free of pain (I live with a chronic pain injury) and simply be focused in this moment now, which feels so peaceful and rejuvenating.
What would you say to a woman of any age considering trying surfing for the first time?
Go gal!! very loudly of course. Give it your best shot and be patient, let go of your agenda and be ready to accept the challenge the ocean has for you each time you venture in. Embrace the energy and persist, the rewards are amazing and age is no excuse!
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